In the midst of this flurry of vinous activity, Bodegas Riojanas was created by the Frias Artacho family, who’d been working in vineyards and selling wine since the 18th century. They built their winery in Cenicero in La Rioja Alta, one of the premier growing regions in the appellation. Today, they are one of the most deeply rooted winemaking families in Rioja’s history. The family participated in the creation of the Rioja Wine Exporters Syndicate and the DO Rioja in the early 20th century. Now the fifth generation of the family is at the helm, trying to honor their deep roots in this region by making wines in the traditional Rioja style. Their specialty is Reserva and Gran Reserva, which comprises more than 70 percent of their production.

Though deeply invested in their roots, the company is looking toward the future. Winemaker Pablo Orio brings a distinctly scientific approach to the Bodega. With a doctorate in Agriculture and Food Science, he has ushered them into the modern era by conducting extensive studies to reduce cork taint, increase resveratrol in the grapes, improve sanitation, monitor vineyards via Google earth, reduce mycotoxins using a filtration system, and perfect a testing method for histamine to ensure that all Bodegas Riojanas wines show minimum amounts (no more red-wine headaches!). Santiago Frias Monje is the general manager of the Bodega, and has been immersed in the culture of winemaking since childhood. Under his management, the winery has followed a diversification strategy with the aim of being a global presence.

Bodegas Riojanas controls 300 hectares (741 acres) on the left bank of the River Ebro, with a new winery located in San Vicente de Sonsierra. The plots of vineyards are situated on clay-limestone soils of Miocene origin. They own one of the largest surface areas dedicated to the native Mazuelo and Graciano in the region. Graciano in particular adds structure and aroma to their wine. These, blended with Rioja superstar Tempranillo, contribute a unique layer of personality to many of their wines.

Their entry level 2011 'Canchales' Joven has all the brashness of youth, with sassy dried cherry and cranberry notes on the nose, making way to coffee and pepper on the palate. It shows a vibrant ruby red in the glass. The tannins are firm, and suggest promising aging for the long haul. The grapes, which are 100% Tempranillo, are sourced from 35 to 55 year old vineyards around Cenicero, at about 500 meters (1,640 feet) in elevation on ferrous clay soils. The grapes are stemmed and crushed then fermented in open vats. It’s only briefly aged in tank. This is a burger wine, especially one topped with with decadent blue cheese.

Vina Albina, named after the wife of the founder, is one of their flagship brands, and it’s the third most popular brand in Spain’s domestic market. Their 2006 'Vina Albina' Reserva is 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano. Grapes are sourced from 35 to 55 year old vineyards as well as some older plots in the villages of Villalva, Brinas, Olauri, Urunuela, and Cenicero, also on ferrous clay soils. The wine is aged for 24 to 30 months in American oak followed by an additional 12 months in bottle. The result is rich and velvety, with a deep black plum color in glass. The nose expresses herbs, black currant, chocolate, coconut, and pine nuts, leading to an herbaceous, smooth palate and creamy tannins. Pair with a full-flavored duck confit.

Their 2001 'Vina Albina' Gran Reserva is the same cepage, but with 36 months in bottle after the 24 to 30 in American oak. The extra time has allowed this vintage to develop into a harmonious presentation of dried fruit, dried lavender, cocoa, and sweet tobacco leaf, with a hint of sarsaparilla on the finish. The acidity is still quite present, giving the wine structure, while the oak has mellowed into a subtle smoothness in the background. Sophisticated and penetrating. Pair it with cumin-scented beef stir fry and the savory cumin will really pop.

Archaeologists have found evidence that winemaking dates back to the Romans in Rioja, and possibly back to the Phoenicians. With 75 miles of vineyards along the Ebro River that are well protected by rugged Cantabrian Mountains, a moderate continental climate, and clay-limestone soils, it’s clear that all the natural conditions were in place to make wine. But with French tutelage and a painstakingly patient process of investing time in their wines, Rioja has well earned its spot at the head of great Spanish winemaking. Bodegas Riojanas honors the region’s tradition by making structured, layered, and deeply satisfying wines.

Also available at Cream
1998 'Vina Albina' Gran Reserva
1998 'Monte Real' Gran Reserva
2001 'Monte Real' Gran Reserva
2006 'Monte Real' Reserva

Written by Kate Soto