Da Capo Winery is located in Agliano Terme, among the hills of Monferrato, just north of the Langhe. Winemaker Paolo Dania's approach is eclectic: he makes classic examples of DOCs, as well as blends of native and international varietals. Da Capo's Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato is reason in and of itself to explore more obscure appellations. Made with the (likely) native Ruché grape, it's only been recognized as a DOCG since 2010, and the zone covers only 100 acres, making it one of the smallest production varietals in the country. The 2012 vintage is nothing short of captivating. Lively and exotic aromatics are layered on a round, silky palate with soft tannins. Rose marks a strong note, with mint, gardenia, juicy cranberry, and lychee in the mix. The lovely ruby color and playful perfumes make it just plain fun to drink. View All Da Capo Wines In Stock

For wine drinkers looking for the same aromatic complexity they expect from Barolo, but housed in a more delicate framework, the Sesia River in the far north of the region is an excellent place to begin. With a cooler, damper climate than its neighbors to the south, the finicky Nebbiolo grape takes even longer to ripen here, so it picks up plenty of acidity along the way. The resulting wines have lower alcohol and a generally lighter body, but maintain that characteristically intriguing Nebbioloness, with layers of earth and tar and spice bound by firm tannins. Gritty soils of glacial moraine and Alpine breezes add to the complexity, while native grapes like Croatina and Bonarda often creep into blends to add a level of interest.

Lessona is the northernmost wine-producing comune in the Piedmont region, and one of the smallest. It makes up a small swatch in the Vercelli Hills at the Sesia River basin, 70 miles northeast of Turin (view map). Here, Nebbiolo goes by the name Spanna, and can be blended (up to 25 percent) with Bonarda, Vespolina, or Croatina to still earn the DOC. The DOC was created in 1976, but the area has a long history of wine growing. In the 19th century, it was covered with 40,000 hectares of vines. It takes a hardy grower to succeed with Nebbiolo in this climate, and now the vines are much more scarce, and are nearly overwhelmed by woods. 

Proprieta' Sperino has proven to be of the right kind of stock to make it work in this region. It's been producing Lessona wines since the 19th century and is dedicated to bringing the tradition of Lessona to the modern world, now with well-known winemaker Paolo de Marchi at the helm. The property is situated in the Castello quarter of Biella province, with the majority of its vines grown at the foot of Monte Rosa. Its yellow and marine sands have been well-protected by the Alps, and the soil maintains some of the highest levels of acidity in the world. This fact, coupled with its dry climate, cool breezes, and long growing season, make for extremely complex grapes with the potential for long-lived wines.

Proprieta' Sperino Lessona 2008 is an homage to the region, and is 95 to 100 percent Nebbiolo. The 2008 vintage experienced a hot Indian summer, lending ripeness to the flavors, with notes of rose, tar, mint, chocolate, and truffles. (Early spring arrival for Sperino 2009 Lessona.) The Sperino 2009 Uvaggio is sourced from both Lessona vineyards (marine sands and glacial sediment) and neighboring Bramaterra (pebbles and igneous rock with china clay). Nebbiolo comprises 65 percent of the blend, with Vespolina and Croatina rounding out the rest. The result is a very approachable wine, with a significant amount of body and smoother tannins. Initial aromas are black currant, herbs, and pepper, giving way to a round palate of vanilla, black fruits, and coffee. In Piedmont, where the choice of ageing vessel is a political one (flying your winemaking flag for tradition or modernization), Sperino splits the difference in this wine and ages their juice in three different vessels: botti, barrique, and oval casks. View All Proprieta' Sperino Wines In Stock

Tenute Sella is another winery entrenched in the region, operating since 1671 in Lessona and Bramaterra. In fact, it's one of the oldest wineries in Europe to consistently maintain the same ownership.Their style is perhaps more traditional and rustic than that of Sperino, providing huge aromatics, distinctive tannins, and a minimal oak influence. They use large Slavonia oak botti for special selections, such as their Lessona and Bramaterra wines, and otherwise ferment in stainless steel vats. Their 2008 Lessona is an interesting counterpoint to the Sperino. Where the Sperino is rounder, the Sella is precise. Sella's Lessona is 80 percent Nebbiolo and 20 percent Vespolina, sourced from 55-year-old vines grown in sea sand soil, and the combination of the two grapes brings out a deep funky earthiness, with dried cherry notes and minerality playing off of one another. It is relatively light in body, with very firm tannins and an underlying juiciness.

Immediately east of Lessona, Bramaterra is on the crater rim of ancient volcanoes, which have left behind soils of acidic, porphyritic rock, along with sand, clay, and iron deposits, plus a significant amount of limestone. Tenute Sella's Bramaterra Estate is in the municipality of Villa del Bosco (view map). Tenute Sella's Bramaterra 2008 is wonderfully complex bottle of wine reflecting this unique terroir, with stone and tar balanced by cranberry and mint aromas on the nose. This a wine you can dig into, and it'll offer up layer after layer of nuance the deeper you go.

Lest you think only big reds come from this area, Tenute Sella produces a 100 percent Erbaluce called 'Doranda' from the Coste della Sesia DOC. The 2012 vintage is a beautiful marigold color in the glass. The wine is uber-expressive, with stone, herbs, chamomile, and a hint of banana on the nose and a weighty medium body. It's been macerated on its skins, and this extra step definitely pays off in complexity and richness. View All Tenute Sella Wines In Stock

These three producers are excellent examples of what the rest of Piedmont is up to. Da Capo, Sperino, and Tenute Sella are deeply passionate about their roots in the region and the traditions their wines harken back to, but the expression of each shows a uniquely distinct interpretation. There is a voice behind these wineries--one that knows where it came from and what that means to the modern world. And let me tell you, it's hauntingly good.

Written by Kate Soto