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Terroir Champagne - A Growing Norm |
Champagne houses emphasize their house style and maintain this house style and quality through the art of blending multiple sites, multiple vintages and multiple grapes. Over the past two decades, we’ve seen the grower Champagne movement shake up the Champagne world and prove to the consumers that the wine from the region can be a unique expression of place and people. Farming practices, vineyard terroir, grape and vintage are emphasized to show that the wine is much more than just for celebrations. Eric Asimov quotes Davy Dosnon from Dosnon & Lepage for New York Times, “But it’s also a wine of terroir, of place and should be thought of that way as well.” This trend has made its way to the big Champagne houses with many now producing terroir Champagne. “We used to mix parcels from the same village; now we vinify each village’s parcels separately,” says Duval-Leroy chef de cave Sandrine Logette-Jardin. “We think more in terms of parcels than villages now. It’s a trend in Champagne.” (Champagne Unveiled, 2013) Though Dominique Moreau inherited Marie-Courtin in 2000. Her vineyard is small, just 2.5 hectares, but is more than enough to create her vision of single-vineyard, single-varietal Champagnes. Her vineyard is located in Polisot (located the next town over from Celles-sur-Ource, where Cédric Bouchard lives and works). The Pinot Noir grapes are 35 to 40 years old and comprise 90 percent of her planting; they thrive in the vineyard’s clay and chalk soils creating complex wines with vibrant minerality. With her philosophy of minimal intervention, Moreau hopes to express the energy of place and its natural rhythms in her wines. She uses organic and biodynamic viticulture in the fields, hand harvesting, natural yeasts, and a focus on low yields to preserve intensity in her grapes. Françoise Bedel has been farming organically and biodynamically since 1997. She is without a doubt a leader of the biodynamic movement in Champagne. She tells Peter Liem that she's noticed a change in her wines: "There's a certain rectilinear character, a structure in the wines now...there's a more intimate feeling in the flavors that connects the wine and the tasters, and the wines are more profound in expression." Her little estate is located in Crouttes-sur Marne, in the extreme western reaches of Champagne, and the vines are planted on soils of chalk, gravel, clay and grey schist. Most of her holdings are planted to Pinot Meunier, which she showcases in her wines. Indigenous yeast and minimal to no dosage is used. Special Champagne House Wines |
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