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Home | Producers | Jean-Yves Peron | Jean-Yves Peron 2009 'Champ Levat' Mondeuse, Vin de Pays d'Allobrogie
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Jean-Yves Peron 2009 'Champ Levat' Mondeuse, Vin de Pays d'Allobrogie
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Item Number: 5114
UPC: None
Country: France Region: Savoie
Appellation/AVA: Vin de Pays d'Allobrogie
Estate Grown Wine: Yes
Vintage: 2009
Grape(s): Mondeuse
Type: Wine - Red
Bottle Size: 750ml Pack: 12 Closure: Cork
Alc by Vol(%): 11.5
Viticulture: Practicing Organic Soil Type: Mica schist
About the Grape: Mondeuse is one of the oldest and most distinctive grapes in Savoie, with Italian characteristics and a possible relation to the Friulian grape Refosco dal Pedunculo Rosso.
Tasting Notes: "Firm tannins frame a medium body whose savory, lip-smacking acidity recalls Mondeuse’s ancient relationship to Syrah; bright red raspberry and dark licorice." - Jeremy Quinn
Food Pairing: Seared Duck Breast with Cherries and Port Sauce About Savoie: The Savoie region is located in the eastern French
Alps on the border of Switzerland. Its wine shares many characteristics
with its neighbor. The region is known for its tourism, and much of the
wine is drunk locally. Most of the wines are white and sold under the
appellation Vin de Savoie, though there are several other appellations
in the region. The mountain slopes aren’t hospitable for viticulture, so
you’ll find much of the vineyards (which total about 1800 hectares) in
the flatlands, valleys, or on the banks of the river Rhone. Seventeen
crus can append their names to the appellation, including Chautagne and
Jongieux. About two-thirds of wine made in the region is white, and you
can expect it to be crisp, delicate, and often chaptalized (as the Swiss
do), with essentially alpine characteristics. The most popular varietal
is Jacquere, a relation of Chardonnay, which is also grown in the
region.
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| Reviews |
Jean-Yves Peron 2009 'Champ Levat' Mondeuse, Vin de Pays d'Allobrogie
Rating: 89
Peron’s 2009 Champ Levat represents a relatively lightweight (merely
11.5% alcohol) and remarkably polished, downright refreshing Mondeuse.
Piquant nuttiness and a light sense of spritz point to low-sulfur,
gentle vinification and bottling – which will not be everyone’s
preference. But classic varietal aromas of mulberry, black pepper, and
violets lead into a correspondingly berry-intense, inner-mouth perfumed,
piquant, almost white wine-like performance in which the typical
tannins of Mondeuse have been utterly tamed. I would plan on drinking
this over the coming year. Growers in the Savoie could do a lot worse
than achieving such a distinctive and infectiously drinkable style of
Mondeuse ... and, unfortunately, most do! (There is an allegedly more
serious Mondeuse bottling from Peron called “Cote Pelee” but by the time
I learned of its existence, those bottles of the 2009 that had come to
the U.S. had already been snapped up by fans.)
Since 2004,
Jean-Yves Peron has cultivated five rocky acres of ancient vineyards
nearly as high-up and as close to Albertville as Savoyard viticulture
extends. I learned about him too late to visit his domaine last November
but was able to sample recently stateside two current releases which
demonstrate that this proponent of low-tech, low-sulfur vinification is
achieving distinctively delicious results. (Peron’s wines are labeled
with neither an appellation controlee nor the name of their cepages.)
- The Wine Advocate (4/30/2012)
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