Ataíde Semedo

Baga is a thin-skinned, late-ripening variety whose high acid and tannin make it a close analogue to Nebbiolo. Indeed, tasting some traditional Baga wines from the early 90s, one will notice that are practically indistinguishable from Barbarescos of a similar age. The thin skin and difficulty of ripening coupled with the near-perennial threat of late-season rains make Baga very susceptible to fungal diseases. Meticulous vineyard work is absolutely essential throughout the season if one wishes to bring in healthy, ripe grapes.

The difficulty of maturing Baga along with the ambivalence (or outright dislike) for the wines in the domestic market has moved many growers around the region to rip up there Baga vines and replace them with Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro or international varieties. To accommodate this shift, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot were added to the D.O.C.’s approved list of varieties in 2003. To label with the D.O.C., however, the wines must be at least 50% Baga.

Despite the difficulties of elaborating Baga wines, there are some small growers who are committed to meeting the challenge. These growers consider Baga to be an integral part of the cultural heritage of the region and they comprise what could be called “the backlash to the backlash.” Ataíde Semedo is one of these growers.

Ataíde is probably best known for producing Quinta da Dôna, previously one of Portugal’s most celebrated Baga wines. Unfortunately, economic pressures forced Ataíde to sell the Qunta da Dôna vineyards some years ago. Since those days, he has done consulting work in several different regions while slowly building a reputation for his eponymous new project in the Bairrada.

Ataíde farms a 5-hectare vineyard that is split between white and red varieties. The white grapes go into a very charming sparkling wine which, due to its small production and regional popularity, is unfortunately not available for export. The red portion of the vineyard is split just about evenly between Baga and Touriga Nacional. Green harvesting is employed to a greater or lesser extent depending on the vintage, and viticulture is carried out with extreme care for the health and vitality of the soil. While Ataíde would like to call himself organic, he is matter-of-fact about the occasional necessity of employing anti-fungal treatments to save a vintage.

Ataíde rents a small, garage-like winery off a narrow side street. There are no barrels at the winery. Ataíde has become tired of oak and sold all of his barrels after the 2009 vintage. He now makes his wines exclusively in stainless steel.

These wines feature high-toned, almost neon berry and cherry fruit. They are certainly capable of being enjoyed on their own, but they absolutely explode on the palate when matched with rustic, hearty foods.

Ataíde is a very welcoming host and a very affable and funny guy. He is, however, decidedly old-fashioned. When it comes to his vocation, his core values are hard work and respect for tradition and heritage. He is not one to diverge from the path he has set for himself in order to accommodate trends or bend to the will of a fickle populace. And as he makes clear on the back label of his wine, he is NOT ON FACEBOOK.